René Boivin

René Boivin, a Parisian, was born in 1864.  He trained and apprenticed as a goldsmith and engraver with his older brother.  In his mid-twenties he began his own jewelry house when he bought a workshop located at rue St. Anastase in Paris. What followed would be an unfathomable career and reputation.  Because of his dedication to high standards in craftsmanship as well as artistic flair shared by he and his wife, the House of Boivin would never lack wealthy and famous clientele. AND their offerings would continue to impact and inspire jewelry collectors throughout the world and throughout time.

In 1893 René married Jeanne Poiret whose brother was Paul Poiret.  At the time he was the most famous couturier in Paris so he designed and tailored clothing to the specific measurements and requirements of his wealthy clients.  Because of her brother's high society associations Jeanne was also well connected.  As the Boivin's abilities in jewelry crafting matured they worked closely with Paul and were inspired by motiffs used frequently in his creations.  The style and craftsmanship produced at Maison Boivin was unparalleled and Jeanne was an astute, savvy business woman.

Incredible jewels were imagined, designed and created.  Any possibility could become a tangible work of art.  From gala standards including floral sprays to whimsical seahorse designs and other maritime creatures, the scope of innovation was wide.  Six variations of a starfish brooch containing amethysts and rubies or emeralds and sapphires as well as other gem variations were hand crafted between the 1930's and 1980's.  Several had articulated arms and all were fabulously designed with a bold size over 11cm.  Today they are considered an iconic Maison Boivin piece.  In 1945 Vogue magazine featured one of the most well-know photographs of a Boivin starfish which is shown adorning the bodice of Millicent Rogers the Standard Oil heiress.

Although René died in 1917, his wife along with Suzanne Belperron, Juliette Moutard and Jean Boivin's daughter Germaine daringly continued to make jewelry that was unmistakably from Maison Boivin.  Because they were so certain that their style was distinct it was rarely necessary for the pieces to be signed.  Educated jewelry connoisseurs could identify a Boivin bracelet immediately.  Especially those that were boldly made of thickly cut and polished rock crystal with incandescent gemstone settings.  Rings were made to match and this line was truly above and beyond any other jewelry available at the time.

 

Once Maison Boivin became associated with wealthy clientele, the days of producing jewels to sell to other firms for resale were limited.  Boivin came to be located in a posh 2nd floor shop with no window displays.  They did not advertise.  Instead, prospective clients' anticipation would grow awaiting the next unusual, unique gemstone-studded adornment.  Imagine the delight when the unicorn, turtle, and horse brooches appeared.  They demonstrated texture, a propensity for appearing to be in motion along with numerous gemstone settings.  Throughout the years of Maison Boivin designers left the firm and others were retained.  The creative, impeccably crafted, flawless gem encrusted jewels never lost their appeal or quality.  In April 1991 the company became part of the Asprey Group and still produces fine jewelry.