Suzanne Belperron - Avant Garde Vintage Jewelry That Stands the Test of Time

We all enjoy stories of triumph over tragedy and cheering on those who rise above their circumstances to shine. Such is the case with French jewelry artist Suzanne Belperron, whose story begins over a century ago. Yet, her unique pieces continue to escalate in value and catch the eye of collectors today.

In the Beginning

Born in 1900 in the French border town of Saint-Claude, Belperron grew up with a recognizable talent for drawing. Although her family wasn't wealthy, she enjoyed sketching pieces that only existed in her dreams. Left fatherless at the age of 13, her mother recognized Belperron's talent and enrolled her in the French art school École des Beaux-Arts in 1916. World War I was surging, yet Belperron was busy making her mark as first in her class and creating award-winning concepts.

Upon graduating in 1918, she was soon hired by the French jewelry firm Boivin, whose founder - Rene Boivin - had passed in 1917. The company was run by Rene's wife, Jeanne, who brought on Belperron to fill the gap as a model-maker and designer. Belperron's designs brought attention to the company as her work became known for its curves, unique use of gemstones, and boldness, which were all in sharp contrast to the more delicate pieces of the day. Because her work metamorphized the company's aesthetic, Belperron rose to become co-director of the Boivin jewelry house in 1924.

As was the custom, Boivin kept their designers anonymous by utilizing the Boivin name on all of their pieces. Belperron wanted a bit more control and in 1932, was offered a position to work for Bernard Herz, a dealer of pearls and precious stones, who was one of Rene Boivin's favorite suppliers. Under Herz, Belperron was granted full autonomy to design and create pieces while working under her name. Although she would finally receive attribution for her work, Belperron refused to mark her jewelry, stating that her style was indeed her signature.

Gaining Recognition

Her avant-garde style began to catch the attention of prominent socialites and wealthy citizens in Paris and beyond. Inspired by the lines in nature and the exotic regions of the globe, Belperron's signature style oozed uniqueness, creativity, and well thought out design. Vogue and Harper's Bazaar consistently featured her designs throughout their pages on cover models.

Belperron was known for her personal touch as she listened to the needs of her clients and crafted custom pieces. Customers chose a commissioned piece from several of her specially sketched designs - some of which were never selected and ultimately never crafted. The collection of colorful sketches is quite stunning, and it's no wonder since drawing was her first love.

World War II and What Followed

During the first world war, Belperron was attending art school and coming of age, but it was the second war that altered her path. Bernard Herz was of Jewish descent and had been interrogated several times due to his heritage. The potential for Herz's capture - or worse - loomed. The decision was made by Herz to sign his company over to Belperron to ensure its legacy. Maison B. Herz became Suzanne Belperron, S.A.R.L.

There were many trials during World War II, including difficulty sourcing materials, but Belperron pressed on to help the company subsist. In 1932 both Belperron and Herz were arrested. Proving her heritage, Belperron' secured her release; unfortunately, Herz was forced into an internment camp and subsequently transferred to Auschwitz, a concentration camp in Poland. These actions spurred Belperron to join the Resistance.

Although she was approached by several American companies - including Tiffany & Co. - with offers, she remained dedicated to staying in Paris during the war. Unfortunately, Herz did not fare well and died in Auschwitz. His son, Jean, had been a prisoner of war for five years, and upon his return home, Belperron signed the company over to Jean. As a token of gratitude, he took Belperron on as a partner, and the new partnership took the name of Herz-Belperron.

High-Powered Clientele

Belperron's clientele continued to grow with her pieces attracting worldwide attention. Her clients enjoyed private appointments where Belperron took careful measurements while also taking into account skin tone and facial structure to ensure the jewelry would be complementary and not detract from features. Her work did not go unnoticed by France; she achieved the honor of the rank of Knight of the Legion of Honor.

With clientele that included royalty - such as the Duke of Windsor - along with socialites, politicians, and starlets of the day, Belperron flourished. Notable names include Christian Dior, Colette, and Elsa Schiapparelli, whose images graced the pages of Vogue as she wore Belperron's jewelry. In more modern times, Karl Lagerfeld was an avid collector of her work and based a clothing collection on a particularly striking piece.

Changing Times

Herz-Belperron continued to make jewelry until 1974, but the dissolution of the company didn't squelch Belperron's desire to delve into creativity. She continued to consult with clients up until her death in 1983. Bearing no children, she left her estate to a dear friend.

After the company closed and Belperron's death, the buzz about her work faded away, but a resurgence came about in 1987 when some of the Duchess of Windsor's jewelry came up for sale at a Sotheby's auction. In 1992, Verdura made a limited selection of Belperron's designs for six years in Paris.

Her apartment doors had shuddered since her death, but in 2007 an heir reopened her dwelling and discovered a wealth of Belperron's sketches and detailed diaries. In 2015 the salon Maison Belperron opened in New York City. An illustrated biography of her story and designs published in 2016. In 2018, to commemorate the centennial of her final year at École des Beaux-Arts, a jewelry collection was released based on 22 designs she had sketched while at the art school.

A Lasting Impression

As one of the 20th Century's most influential designers, her pieces frequently bring six figures at auctions, although they are a rare find due to their lack of a signature mark. The company that bears her name, Belperron, is recreating some of her jewelry today. Of note are a geometric bracelet featuring carved rock crystal and 18k gold and the unique Toggle Torque Necklace, which features diamonds, 18k gray gold, and platinum complemented by a loop covered in black lacquer.

In a time of wars, turmoil, and trials, Belperron made her mark in a world mostly dominated by men. Rising above her circumstances and using her talents, she became one of the most influential jewelry designers of her day and beyond. Her creativity and thoughtful design have traversed generations.